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The Bar at La Gloria

The first accolade is not only based on my personal experience but also on the advice of my Liman friends. Unlike some other Pisco Sours we tried, it wasn´t too sweet or syrupy. It still packs a serious whallop, definitely the strongest cocktail I ever had. La Gloria is not cheap, even by international standards, but if you´re going to splurge on one meal in Lima – this is the place (but you can also just drink at the bar in the front room). Make sure to order the grilled calamari!! (reservations are a must)

For those who don´t know: A Pisco Sour is a cocktail which contains Pisco (a regional brandy), lemon juice, egg whites, simple syrup, and regional bitters (like Amargo bitters, though Angostura bitters work if regional bitters are unavailable).

Peruvian Potatoes

  • Lima looks similar to Sao Paulo, but safer, cleaner, nicer and with fewer bars on the windows
  • Peruvians really like salt, I mean REALLY like salt
  • Almost every restaurant we have been to serves the same style of (tasty) Chicken Soup
  • Peru is exceptionally clean, unlike in tourist towns in SEA there´s almost no garbage around
  • There are about 2000 types of potatoes and Peruanos aren´t afraid to use them
  • Being on the road is as scary, if not scarier than in China
  • All food is red, yellow, orange or white
  • There are almost no straight [single] men in Lima
  • Peruvians are pretty old school, no PDA and girls still live at home until they are married (even in the more progressive families)

As soon as we got back to Lima we met with Augusto, Angeline´s friend we´re staying with. We handed over the dirty laundry and packed to head back to his beach house. Unfortunately, it was overcast and we didn´t really make it to the beach but we did have a hard-partying weekend with Augusto and his friends. The other night there was a UFO sighting, I missed it by 2 minutes but did see something moving in the fog – I can´t really saw definitively what it was… Sunday we spent the day on Augusto´s friend`s Catamaran having lunch and a bit of a put around the bay. We got back to Lima late last night and spent today chilling. My first day of doing almost nothing and it´s been nice 🙂 I decided I don´t feel like travelling around by myself so instead of heading to Arequipa and Coca Valley I´m heading to Buenos Aires to plant myself for about a month. Instead of staying in a hostel I found a few apartments on Craigslist that I will hopefully check out once I´m there.

Me at the ´Chu

We stayed at Rupa Wasi in Aquas Calientes – a cute eco lodge that´s modeled after a treehouse. We had some free time so we hiked up the hill to the hot springs (which were more like a public pool). For dinner we tried Alpaca steak… which was kinda nasty. On the advice of nearly every website we got up at 5am to catch the first bus up. It was warm but drizzling and VERY cloudy. For the first couple hours we couldn´t see more than 10 feet in front of us (which made it easier to focus on our tour guide I guess). It was pretty empty, only about 50 other people were there. We hiked around for 2 hours, took a late breakfast break and climbed back up – this time the sun came out and it had cleared – the views were stunning. MP was very beautiful, but I have to say, Ankor Wat is more impressive… after a few more hours of hiking up and down we returned to Aquas Calientes for lunch and to chill out before catching our train back to Allantaytambo. Our taxi driver from Cusco picked us up and we shared our terrifying ride back with a couple from Brasil and a hot Rufus Sewell look-alike mystery man who rode in the boot. We got back around 10 and crashed since we had to get up at 5 again to head to the airport.

Peru Rail Map

We took a morning flight so we got into Cusco with time to spare. We checked into Sumac Wasi . I didn´t realize it was in Gringo Alley when I made the reservation but otherwise it was clean, had character and was central. I had hoped to fall in love with Cusco and want to camp out there, but that wasn’t quite the case. It’s cute but hectic and it felt like everyone was out to squeeze as much money out of tourists as possible. The doctor gave me pills against altitude sickness that we started to take the day before we went (since Cusco is 3,400 Meters above sea level) but he failed to mention we shouldn’t drink on them so half a cocktail at dinner and we were toasted. Other than lightheadedness and some pins and needles in my feet, I wasn’t too affected so I guess they worked. After 2 days of walking around (and a day tour of surrounding ruins including `Sexy Woman`). We took the train to Aguas Calientes (the official stop before Machupicchu). The ride was full of really beautiful scenery, waterfalls, farms and the like. Turns out the Inca Trail is always closed in February for maintenance so that wasn’t an option (not that Angeline or I were seriously considering it).

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